Oscar De La Renta 2011 Pre-Fall Haute Couture Trunk Show at Neiman Marcus San Francisco

By Samantha Spiegel

On May 19, 2011, Neiman Marcus’ third floor salon was filled with incredible Oscar de la Renta haute couture. De la Renta, being no stranger to detail and precision, made sure there was no lack thereof in his new collection. As I began to walk through the clothes, heavily beaded and embroidered strapless and one-shouldered gowns, usually bejeweled around the neckline or waistline, flowed out from the clothing racks. Gowns struck a romantic, sophisticated, glamourous, yet sexy note with black tulle and silk organza, beaded lace, and gilded colors.

The gowns beautifully shaped and flattered the female figure, much of the time resembling the silhouette and style of a woman from a René Gruau world and the first noticeable motifs were the fine florals and twisting lines. But the gowns suddenly turned into stiff, cheap prom dresses made out of parkas. From Palm Beach. Successfully, however, it dove back into sophistication with a slinky, black velvet dress and a Poiret-inspired, cocooning silhouette of a twisted ruffle empire skirt and black silk organza.

Two pinnacles of the trunk show were the voluminous and feathered Gruau-inspired evening gowns and the 19th-century-inspired dresses: pastels, bows, slight Oriental embroidery, and high-necked boleros.

The rest of the collection was not very inspiring to me, personally. Modern pieces, profoundly influenced by tribal designs and dense colors, seemed foreign and inharmonious next to couture gowns that could have easily been worn by an Irving Penn or Richard Avedon model.

Academy of Art 2011 Grad Fashion Show

It is been a week of pure FASHION in San Francisco, all in anticipation of the Academy of Art 2011 Graduate Fashion Show. The week had an agenda full of activities including symposiums, luncheons and judging, the exquisite list of Fashion personalities including: Fashion Critic of the New York Times, Cathy Horyn, President and Artistic Director of Sonia Rykiel, Nathalie Rykiel, Fashion Designer, Executive Producer of IMG Fashion, Christina Neault (the power behind NY fashion Week), Proprietor of Coeur d'enterprise, Laura du Pavillon, and Fashion Designer Yigal Azrouel among others joined Dr. Elisa Stephans, President of the University, Gladys Perin Palmer and local personalities to honor Horyn and Rykiel with a VIP luncheon-reception.

New York Times Fashion Critic

Cathy Horyn

A cake to honor Cathy Horyn

Carolyne Zinko, Cathy Horyn, Edith Barker and Karen Tamblyn

Dr. Elisa Stephans and Fashion Designer Yigal Azrouel

And, on May 5, 2011 the tent at 601 Brannan Street opened its door to welcome guests of honor who arrived to review and celebrate the senior fashion students' portfolios.

Th surprise cameo of the night came with the last minute appearance of International Herald Tribune Fashion Editor Suzy Menkes who sat in the front row to watch 15 student designers as their models strutted on the runway.

Front Row From Right to Left

Cathy Horyn, Nathalie Rykiel,

Yigal Azrouel

The Fifth Issue of One Eighty Magazine

(Created by fashion journalist students)

It was a fascinating show of cutting edge designs, mixed textiles and well elaborated structures. Among my favorites were Peter Loc Tan Nguyen from Vietnam, a collection inspired by men's wear and tailoring. I also loved the fashion and textile design collaboration of Lauren Haut and Darrin George inspired by loss of innocence, 1950 and 1960 wallpaper and tailoring. The collaboration of Brittany Burggraff and Wendy Tam collection inspired by dark children's stories, vintage lingeries was one of my favorite over the top collections. And, finally, the designs of Drew Williams from San Francisco, a collection inspired by agarose gel electrophoresis....Fantastic creations!!

By Peter Loc Tan Nguyen

By Lauren Haut and Darrin George

By Drew Williams

By Brittany Burggraff and Wendy Tam

By Cynthia Tran and Kassie Moody

By Donna Dong Zhong

Front row (second from the left)

International Herald Tribune Fashion Editor Suzy Menkes

It was a true fabulous fashion presentation that welcomed and opened new doors in the fascinating, but extremely HARD fashion industry. Congratulation and good luck 2011 Class Senior Fashion Students of Academy of Art University!!

Buenos Aires Runway 2011

BUENOS AIRES RUNWAY

Buenos Aires, April 2011- On March 22, 2011 the Buenos Aires city government debuted Buenos Aires Runway at the Metropolitan Design Center (CMD) located in the traditional Barracas neighborhood. Designed to showcase local designers, last month’s inaugural edition put some of the finest Argentinean styles on display for the Fall-Winter 2011 collections.

This first edition of Buenos Aires Runway served as a project platform to celebrate Argentinean fashion as a new creative field, as well as reinforce its integration into the industry and economy.

Daniela Sartori

Fabian Zitta

Laura Valenzuela

Marcelo Senra

Mariana Dappiano

Mariano Toledo

Min Agostini (142)

The second edition of Buenos Aires Runway will include several new and exciting additions. The event, to be held in Fall 2011, will feature business rounds with buyers around the country, various conference cycles and a showroom similar to the main fashion event in Latin America.

In all future editions of Buenos Aires Runway, new talent will continue to be selected, with the goal of offering these upcoming designers the professional tools and base to establish adequate connections within the local and international market.

With help from prestigious IMG Fashion, Buenos Aires Runway seeks to become a part of the international fashion calendar while also establishing the city of Buenos Aires as a symbol of design and fashion.

Among the designers who participated in the first edition of Buenos Aires Runway:

Marcelo Senra, an Argentinean native, known for her ethnic and tribal designs, was selected last year by the Argentina Ministry of Foreign Affairs to show her collection at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in New York.

Daniela Sartori, a graduate of the University of Buenos Aires, she works with organic material and speciailizes in tailoring. Her clothes are unisex.

Min Agostini studied architecture at the University of Buenos Aires and uses that background in her designs. She’s known for her short skirts with big volume, dresses and urban coats. In 2009, she was selected by the Argentina Ministry of Foreign Affairs to show her collection at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in New York.

Fabian Zitta, once a doctor, studied design at the University of Buenos Aires. He is inspired by Art Deco and his collections have many layers.

Marina Dappian, a graduate of the University of Buenos Aires, she was insipired by pictures her daughter scribbled on the wall of the house. She works a lot with wool.

Mariano Toledo is an argenitinian Designer who works on Latin America Project Runway. His Fall-Winter 2011 Collection included some leather goods and jackets that are typical of his design. He appreciates a masculine style that highlights feminity with personality, mixing skirts, ties, and transparent pants.

Balenciaga and Spain at De Young Museum in San Francisco

Vogue European Editor at Large Hamish Bowles

Cecil Beaton's Quote

What a treat it was to have a private preview of the new Balenciaga and Spain exhibit at the De Young Museum!!

The private presentation was conducted by FAM Board president Dede Wilsey, Curator and European Editor-at -large for Vogue Hamish Bowles and FAM Director John Buchanan.

FAM Board President Dede Wilsey

Balenciaga and Spain, the De Young Museum's current exhibit examines a captivating look at the influence of Spain's culture, history art and traditions on the legendary master designer Cristobal Balenciaga who was born on January 21, 1895 in Guetaria, Spain.

Cristobal Balenciaga 1895-1972

The exhibition features 120 Balenciaga's greatest creations including garments, hats and headdresses drawn from the strengths of the Fine Arts Museums's costume holdings and private collections which include the Archives Balenciaga, Paris, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Paris's Musee de la Mode and Musee Galliera and, of course, some of Mr. Bowles' own collection.

Balenciaga's signature silhouettes

Balenciaga's signature silhouettes

Dance Theme

Dance

Black silk organza evening ensemble, summer 1951

Bullfight Theme

Day suit, Summer 1948

Worn By Doris Duke

Evening dress, summer 1951

Archives Balenciaga, Paris

The exhibition begins with the display of a pink silk taffetta evening dress, Winter 1957, worn Mrs. Peter Baumberger. It is then followed by an introductoryt gallery featuring three decades of Balenciaga's signature silhouettes, all in tones of black that demostrate his mastery of volume, his use of fabric and masterful embellishment. From there, it unfolds in six areas: Dance, Bullfighting, Regional dress, Spanish Art, the Spanish Court and Religious Ceremony. English photographer and designer Cecil Beaton hailed Balenciaga as "Fashion's Picasso." In his work Balenciaga shows the refinement of France and the strength of Spain. He uses fabric like a sculptor working in marble. Hamish Bowles, the show's curator, remarked on his exquisite skill in everything down to the last stitch. The legendary Coco Chanel called Balenciaga "the only couturier." All the other, she said, "are just draughtsman." He had a reputation as a couturier of uncompromising standards and was hailed a "the master of us all" by Christian Dior.

Evening dress, Summer 1963

Worn by Jeanne Magnin

Red silk taffeta cocktail dress with cape, summer 1962

Worn by Mrs. Antenor Patino

Cocktail ensemble with dress and jacket, Winter 1951

Worn by Bettina Ballard

Evening dress, winter 1965

Worn by Ava Gardner

Lime green silk gazar evening dress, winter 1967

Evening dress, Winter 1959

Worn by Julia Henry

Cocktail dress, winter 1967

Archives Balenciaga, Paris

The exhibition is filled with impeccable garments worn by generations of the most iconic, stylish women in the world including Ava Gardner, Gloria Guinness, Julian Henry, Doris Duke, Bettina Ballard, Jeanne Magnin among others. It offers insights into both present and past fashion. Definitely a MUST SEE exhibit!!!

Balencaiga and Spain

De Young Museum March 26 - July 4, 2011

50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive

San Francisco CA 94118

Website:

deyoung.famsf.org